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been up a few weeks and thinking of maybe taking a look. Thanks everyone for taking the time to reply.ĮDIT- looking at this ad, it states 2014 sv 650, ~ 8000kms, - $3500. Guess this the tech today I'll try not to whine too much, but I think Im already missing going to winners circle for a handful of jets.lol. So, a mail in ecu flash is reasonably inexpensive, and should be better than a stock oem ecu- but might not be perfection. Mainly looking for good drivability, (smooth at throttle off/on) with the engine air/fuel ratio in a safe range. Sounds like it might not be necessary? will the stock oem ecu correct a lean condition from using a pipe? this info raised me eyebrows. was because I thought it would be req'd for keeping the air/fuel ratio safe (not lean) with a pipe or. The reason I asked about flashing an ecu. My experience, autotune gets 95% of it, go to the bench for the last few. If you are racing, sure.ĭoozerdave has a ZX-6R Scott Miller spent a good amount of time on that's crazy smooth, but again, unless your racing or seriously into track days its a diminishing return on investment spending more than a couple hours on the dyno. It works well, but if I was doing it from scratch, for the cost I don't know its worth spending the time for the extra few %. They clearly spent a fair bit of time on it given how smooth the graphs are, including ignition timing and the works.
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The 2015 R1 I picked up this year (from an AFM racer) has a full RapidBike Racing controller, FTECU flash, auto blip, etc., tuned by EDR. A stock 2016 BMW S1000RR was pretty good right out of the box. That was just fueling and honestly, I would call it good enough. Never went to the dyno, but always worked well and could pull with any bike < 10k. I had a bazzaz TC + ZFI + QS on a 20RR + autotune + stock ECU. Everyone is going to have a different experience. I suspect that if the O2 sensor were to be hooked back up, it would run normally. For a race bike - which ought not to be spending much time down there - it's not much of an issue, but you really would not want to run with this reflash on a street bike. the times when it would normally be in open loop. Leaning out the part-throttle part of the map (which I did via PowerCommander) makes it a bit unhappy about cold starting and warm-up, i.e. I suspect it's waiting for the O2 sensor signal that will never come. One thing I found out about the "canned" reflash for mine - which I believe is FTECU - is that it may have disabled the diagnostics and fault code for the oxygen sensor, but it didn't properly remap part-throttle operation for open-loop. Mine is at the point where I've had the bike running in the shop, and learned a thing or two about it, but it hasn't been to the dyno yet. If you are going to get a shop to do it then you might as well get them to put it on the dyno and let them deal with it. The mail-in ECU will only get you the standard "canned" reflash. There's no point buying the reflashing hardware itself if you are only doing one bike. Reflashing the stock ECU preserves the stock wiring harness and hardware with no extra gadgets or connections to fail. The counterpoint is that any extra box or gizmo or electrical connector is another point of failure. At the hourly rate for the dyno, it doesn't take long for a PowerCommander to pay its own way because of the delays involved with reflashing. Changing a cell on a PowerCommander and rewriting the PowerCommander map takes 2 seconds. One thing that Pro 6 tipped me off to, is that if you are going to tune on a dyno, every time you have to change even the slightest thing inside the ECU, reflashing the ECU takes 10 or 15 minutes. The "canned" reflash may have fuel and ignition remapped but you will be superimposing the PowerCommander on top of it anyhow, so it really doesn't matter if the canned reflash is super precisely dead nuts accurate. If you are stuck with having to do both (my situation) then you can get a "canned" reflash that addresses the issues with the stock ECU and a PowerCommander with quickshifter, and use the PowerCommander for fine-tuning, be it on a dyno or otherwise. "wall-wetting compensation", then you will have to reflash the ECU. the rev limit, or disable closed-loop operation with the stock narrow-band lambda sensor, or change the rate-of-TPS-change compensation a.k.a. If you want to change something that is beyond the capability of a PowerCommander, e.g. If you have a bike with an ECU that has no provision for a quickshifter (my situation) and you want a quickshifter (my situation) then you will need an add-on box of some sort. Assuming that's not the case for whatever reason, e.g. Depends how fussy you are.įor most people with a stock bike being used as a street bike, just leaving it alone and spending nothing will be fine.